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LAKE KIVU:
Lake Kivu is extraordinarily beautiful: a vast inland sea enclosed by the steep, green terraced hills that are so characteristic of rural Rwanda. Along its shores lie three resort towns, Gisenyi, Kibuye and Cyangugu, connected by a wild roller-coaster road that tumbles through lush plantain fields and relic patches of misty rainforest to offer sweeping views over the shimmering lake.
Gisenyi, a short drive from Ruhgengeri and the Parc des Volcans, is set on a sandy beach lined with swaying palms and colonial-era hotels that positively exude an atmosphere of tropical languor. At Kibuye, tourist activities are centered around a modern lakeshore guesthouse, which overlooks pine-covered hills seemingly transplanted from the Alps. Different again is Cyangugu, close to Nyungwe Forest, where most subdued tourist development is compensated for by perhaps by the most spectacular setting of them all. Lake Kivu is the largest of numerous lakeswhich fill the valleys of Rwanda.
Lakes Burera and Ruhondo, close to the gorilla-tracking centre of Ruhengeri, are often neglected gems: deep blue waters ringed by steep hills and tall waterfalls, with the outlines of the nearby Virunga Volcanoes providing a spectacular backdrop, particular as seen from the comfortable Foyer de Charité guesthouse on lake Ruhondo.
Further south, Lake Muhazi makes for a good day trip from Kigali, with overnight camping available. Gisenyi and Kibuye are the places to head for creature comforts and water sports. Away from the main resorts, however, the lake circuits offer rewarding glimpses into a more ancient Africa, as fisherman ply the water in dugout canoes unchanged in design for many centuries, colourfully dressed ladies smoke traditional wooden pipes, and troubadours strum sweetly on stringed iningire (traditional guitars). The bird life around the lakes is fantastic: flotillas of pelicans, majestic crowned cranes, jewel-like malachite kingfishers, and much else besides.
PARC NATIONAL DES VOLCANS:
"In the heart of Central Africa, so high up that you shiver more than you sweat," wrote the eminent primatologist Dian Fossey, "are great, old volcanoes towering up almost 15,000 feet, and nearly covered with rich, green rainforest - the Virungas". Situated in the far northwest of Rwanda, the Parc des Volcans protects the steep slopes of this magnificent mountain range - home of the rare mountain gorilla - and the rich mosaic of montane ecosystems, which embrace evergreen and bamboo forest, open grassland, swamp and heath.
An exhilarating trek through the cultivated foothills of the Virungas offers stirring views in all directions. Then, abruptly, the trail enters the national park, immersing trekkers in the mysterious intimacy of the rainforest, alive with the calls of colourful birds and chattering of the rare golden monkey, and littered with fresh spoor of the mountains' elusive populations of buffalo and elephant. Through gaps in the forest canopy, the magnificent peaks are glimpsed, easily accessible and among the highest in Africa, beckoning an ascent.
The bustling market town of Ruhengeri has a memorable setting at the base of the Virungas. On the outskirts of town, the natural bridge at Musanze - a solidified lava flow - is a fascinating relic of the volcanic activity that shaped this scenic area. Also within easy day tripping distance of Ruhengeri are the seldom visited but lovely Lakes Burera, Ruhondo and Karago. Ruhengeri offers a good selection of reasonably-priced small hotels and guest houses, but visitors seeking greater comfort could base themselves in Gisenyi or Kigali and - with an early start - head to the Parc des Volcans and Ruhengeri as a day trip. ^Top |
Rwanda