THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT
 The Faroe Islands are built up of layers of volcanic basalt and, as a rule, are tilted with the eastern shores sloping into the sea and the western coasts rising up in soaring cliffs. This layer effect is most pronounced along the more peaceful and protected fjords and sounds. Along the shores of these fjords and sounds lie the towns and villages of the Faroes, which sparkle in multi-coloured splendour against the deep-green swath of cultivated pastureland surrounding them. Above them rise the mountains with their green sloping fells bounded by dark stony crags. This interplay between the green fells and rocky protrusions give the mountains their layered look.
The craggy protrusions visible in the mountains are the vestiges of enormous layers of basalt laid down by gigantic volcanoes in the tertiary period some 60 million years ago. Each basalt layer represents one or more volcanic events. In between the basalt layers are bands of red tuff, which is the compressed ash spewed out by the volcanoes between eruptions. Tuff is softer than basalt and erodes more quickly. The basalt layers gradually erode and fall down on to the layer below to eventually crumble onto the earthen slopes where the grasses and heather flourish.
 The western and northern coasts face the unrelenting onslaught of the sea. Especially in winter the storms break loose and the ocean swells up to crash against the rocky shoulder of the Faroes. The sea rushes in, roaring and rumbling, and lashes its full power against the cliffs. The clamour reverberates from top to bottom as if the tumult came from the very core of the earth; the sea explodes into foamy surf and slips back muttering crude, rumbling epithets and promising revenge. Land and sea wage an endless battle which continues throughout the dark, lonely nights of winter, year after year, century after century.
Eventually the soft light of summer returns and all is at peace. The sea stretches out in stillness, friendly and inviting. The long summer days teem with seabirds flocking to the soaring cliffs. The collision of cold arctic currents with the warm Gulf Stream near the Faroe Islands has created an especially nutrient-rich environment for the many birds that breed here. Ornithologists have identified around 300 bird species in the Faroe Islands, whereof 40 are regular breeding birds and another 40 are but infrequent guests. Colonies of puffins inhabit the many ledges and green swaths at the top of the cliffs. Their breeding grounds are quite conspicuous because of the deep, blue-green colour of the grass, which is a by-product of years of their activ
 Now and again a seal sticks its dark and shiny head up out of the water to see what is happening just as the individual hiker, having forsaken the delights of the sea, rises above the clouds lingering about the mountain tops. On occasion, the weather may not look so promising to the novice hill walker; the clouds sweep in low and wisps of tattered cloud play about the mountain slopes. The experienced local guide is confident, however, and quickly selects the correct path and course. Soon both guide and hill walker emerge from the woollen kingdom of the clouds there to behold the spectacular vistas of land and sea that stretch out before them into infinity. Surveying such a vista, one can conjure up a vision of a once vast and mighty continent, alas now sunk below the sea millions of years ago.
A few generations ago nature was a formidable adversary. Even the smallest journey from one village to another demanded much time and effort. If one desired to travel to another island, a whole crew was needed to row in small open boats often through wind and rain and over frightful surging seas; if one travelled over land one went by foot. Now one sits in a car or a bus and drives onboard a ferry and the distance is measured only in kilometres not time. What in days of old took many strenuous days, now only takes but a few hours.
 In spite of these modern changes, the same original undisturbed and peaceful nature remains. Just a short distance from the new asphalt roads, the bold wayfarer is soon alone in the mountain heath, in a lonesome valley, or clambering over rocky heights. There an ethereal silence reigns, full of nature’s own sounds – the sounds of trembling water over stone or tuff of grass, the sound of the sea, the golden plover, the curlew, and the snipe. Perchance the coarse call of the gull may descend into the tranquillity of the moment and penetrate the deep reflections of the more intrepid wanderers, as he either explores the secrets of the moor or she rests briefly upon a white, lichen-covered rock before setting out upon the next segment of their trek.
Those that travel with their computer or mobile telephone by their side or swiftly journey from village to village looking only at the mileage or their watch, may begin to think to their amazement that this country is much too small to encompass so grand a display of nature. But for those that emerge from their modern technological shells, they will discover that the natural wonders of the Faroes cannot be reckoned by size or distance, but only by their eternal essence. |
Faroe Islands Travel Tips