Hemmed in by the vastness of the Arabian desert around it, Abu Dhabi was nevertheless old even when oil began bringing change in. Today, amid the gleaming towers that line its shaded boulevards, Abu Dhabi's old fort, Al Husn, is its strongest and most visible link with its past. Although the first written records of the fort date back to 1793, the walls contain a considerably older square fort. Yet compared to the evidence on the nearby island of Umm al Nar, even this is recent: a settlement existed here as long ago as 3,000 BC.

Abu Dhabi, the seat of the UAE's government, is the dominant emirate, accounting for about 85 per cent of the total size of the UAE, and is accustomed to thinking big. That easy facility for grandeur is best seen along the city's Corniche, which provides an extraordinary showcase and contains a number of high profile landmark buildings. Perhaps the most eye-catching is the Baynunah Hilton Towers. Modern and almost futuristic in design, it bears skilful traditional carving including the word 'Baynunah' written in Arabic as a logo. Most of the city's building development adheres to a strict set of design guidelines: Islamic elements and decoration are encouraged.

Obviously, the arch plays a fundamental role and is incorporated into modern Emirati architecture in a variety of ways. A walk down any of the capital's major streets confirms that. Yet the capital is not just lifeless monument and stone. At the Abu Dhabi Breakwater Development Project, work is under way on a spectacular marina and shopping complex which will make the city that much more attractive as a tourist hotspot.