VanuatuTravel Tips

On February 21 1931, the widow of the 30th President of the United States, Calvin Coolidge, christened the bow of the largest and finest merchant ship ever built by an American shipyard. The 654 foot, 21,936 ton "President Coolidge" was the one of the last truly opulent vessel s to be built anywhere.Everything about the ship combined comfort and elegance. Passengers could relax in one of two saltwater pools, one with an artificial sand beach. They could enjoy fine music from the Musician's gallery in the First Class dining Room or enjoy the quiet elegance of a well stocked library. However perhaps the most impressive room was the First Class Smoking Lounge. At one end there was a verde antique marble fireplace. Above the mantle a large decorative panel of majorca depicted a 'lady and unicorn'. The room was fitted with overstuffed, walnut armchairs upholstered in green leather, large gaming tables and glass topped smoking stands.As to services, the ship featured a gymnasium, children's playroom, shopping arcade, soda fountain, barber shop and beauty salon, a marine tea-garden and play deck for golf, tennis, handball, squash and quoits. There was even a stock exchange.Fine passenger dining and a strict schedule made the "Coolidge" a favourite of the Sunshine Route, from San Francisco to Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Manila.However in 1941 and the likelihood of America entering the European War, the Coolidge went into service with the American Army as a transport ship for reinforcing Pacific garrisons. When fully converted in 1942 she could carry 5,000 troops. One swimming pool was converted to a hold and most of the luxurious furnishings were replaced with bunk beds and extra toilets. But permanent fixtures such as the Lady, remained.The Coolidge made several South Pacific runs in 1942. On October 6th that year she departed San Francisco for New Caledonia and Espiritu Santo laden with the 5,092 officers and troops of the 172nd Regiment, 43rd Infantry division. They were to be much needed reinforcements for the American assault on Guadalcanal and as such, were a self contained unit. The Coolidge was well and truly laden with the machinery of war.On the morning of 26th October 1942, the Coolidge approached Espiritu Santo by the Eastern side of the Segond Channel. The navy had neglected to give Captain Nelson 'Special Instructions'. These instructions could not be radioed due to the necessity of security. Following a series of misadventures and misunderstandings, the patrol boat at the entrance failed to stop her. AS the ship began to enter the channel, radio officers had no choice but to break silence and issue a warning at 0930 "STOP, you are entering a....." - the warning came too late.
An explosion struck the aft fire room - an explosion from a mine, one of many scattered in a deadly mine field across the channel. Thirty seconds later a second explosion hit the engine room - the ship was mortally wounded. Captain Nelson ordered the now listing ship to be turned to the shore and run aground. Immediately, life boats and nets, Jacob's ladders and ropes were lowered and the abandon ship order issued.Everyone aboard was told to leave their possessions and equipment, they could return for them later. In the flurry men abandoned hard hats and guns, personal equipment - even a typewriter as they scrambled to leave the dying vessel. Perhaps because they were mostly military and ship's crew and accustomed to taking orders, accounts for the loss of life during the abandon ship. Many suffered chemical burns as they landed in the oily waters and Santo had few facilities to accommodate such large numbers...the ship was fully laden with their supplies. But the Coolidge would never let her troops return for their possessions. Fifty five minutes after the she was beached, at 10.55, the great vessel gave a shuddering lurch and slid backwards into the oily water, disappearing to her grave at the edge of the Segond Channel.She rolled onto her Port side as she sank, taking with her two men who were never found. One, an Army Captain, had returned to search for a missing man, He was never found although some years back, his service revolver was found amidst the broken crockery of the galley.The loss of millions of dollars worth of equipment and the setback to the war effort were not large in the overall scheme of the War, but it was nevertheless a costly mistake - the second within a few months as the U.S.S. "Tucker" had met a similar fate on the other side of Segond Channel just months before.Still, such a costly mistake has turned Espiritu Santo into a Mecca for divers worldwide, for the Coolidge is the largest, most intact and accessible wreck of W.W. II.Located only a few kilometers from Luganville, the second largest town in Vanuatu on the island of Espiritu Santo, the wreck lies only a few paces from the relatively calm shore. Divers can reach it by boat or by foot, through one of several dive operations based in Santo.With visibility normally around 15-25 meters, such a wreck dive offers exceptional underwater clarity. The outer parts of the ship can be safely seen by novice divers.For penetration diving, most areas of interest, including the famous Lady, allow divers to see outside the vessel at all times. However it is strongly recommended that divers take it easy at first, exploring the outside on the first few dives and making gradual penetrations of the wreck.

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